Mike's BADDASS Hemi project
http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0507_1997_jeep_wrangler_tj_57l_Hemi_V8_swap/index.html
parts 11 and 14 are the two parts for the hemi install
*note the link for part 14 is invalid from the part 11 page, this
link to part 14 works
Another hemi in a TJ:
http://www.burnsvilleoffroad.com/articles/05_11_06.aspx
and teraflex's data sheet on the upgrade:
http://www.teraflex.biz/pages/Hemi Conversion June 2005.pdf
Notes about hemi's:
Thehemi.com Engine HP Numbers
2004+ engine tranny uses single computer
security key may be issue
will have to hard wire A/C, but I think the hemi will have the torque to live without the .5 sec delay and idle boost
Notes about donor vehicle, a
2005 Hemi Grand Cherokee 4x4.
TeraFlex parts:
Hemi/TJ Wiring Harness 1 BLD570400 $1,395.00 OUCH!!! I don't think so, and it will not work with a WK hemi!
Hemi Motor Mounts TER 885 $198.00 again, I will pass... I used stock WK Hemi mounts to plates I made
Radiator MES 2015A $275.00(blem) OK, I bought it, but it sucks..
Transmission Mount TER 883 $43.20 I looked and looked, this thing was never going to fit my tranny...
Gas Pedal Bracket TER 880 $43.20 I may fess up and get this, but prolly not..
Newer TJ Parts:
2001+ TJ instrument cluster and harness
turns out this will not work for my MDS, will gut a WK cluster and install in 2000 TJ housing
4671336 1 Jeep Brake Switch 2005
turns out my 2000 switch is 6 pins, and has 2 NC and 1 NO switches internally, so can just rewire.
NVLD (Near Vacuum Leak Detection) system
4891427AB 1 Detector, Natural Vacuum Leak
52059627AB 1 Bracket, Vapor Canister
52059640AC 1 Bracket, Natural Vacuum Leak Detector
6503343 2 Screw
4891564AB 1 Filter Leak Detection
52059628AA 1 Hose, Canister to NVLD
52059631AA 1 Hose, Flow Valve to Canister
52059633AB 1 Hose
52059585AC 1 Tube, Control Valve
52059630AB 1 Canister, Vapor
Fuel tank:
5161335AB 1 Module, Kit Fuel Pump/Level Unit
55366299AA 1 Nut, Lock
52059617AE 1 Tank, Fuel -- Plastic
5013978AA 1 Wiring, 4 way
5013982AA 1 Wiring, 4 way
Manual to Automatic Conversion :
I used the electronic auto-stick shifter that is compatible with the donor engine:
52109678AH HOUSING AND LEVER, Shifter
52109667AD CABLE, Gearshift Control
Starter System - no change needed, as I got a WK motor, just had to lengthen red cable and relocate where ground is to facilitate stock battery location.
Exhaust Equipment (manifolds not needed since I get a WK motor), but I am going with the stock Catalytic convertors
52090043AD 1 PIPE AND CONVERTER, Exhaust, To Manifold
56028994AB 2 O2 Sensor (Upstream)
56028997AA 2 O2 sensors (Downstream)
6505699AA 4 exhaust screw
6503231 4 exhaust nut
AC lines
TJ is orifice tube with low pressure accumulator, WK is expansion valve with high pressure receiver-dryer.
TJ has high and low pressure switches in series do disable compressor clutch, WK has 3-wire transducer that goes to the climate control computer... which I am not using.
For these reasons, I chose to stay with TJ setup, and cut and welded pieces of lines to place accumulator in front of battery
Tranny, t-case, and driveshafts:
I used the stock tranny mount, trying to raise enough to also use flat skid plate, will have to form the floor pan a bit.
I removed the flange yoke and installed a 1310 CV yoke on rear of NV245, had to cut tip of shaft off that was an alignment for the flange-style yoke.
Front yoke is a 'cup yoke', and is part of the actual output shaft...
may look at replacing someday with normal output shaft, but just had the stock shaft lengthened and a serviceable 1310 end installed
misc:
56042395 1 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor - connects to Front Control module on WK... mine is there but may be damaged, nope, that is the intake air sensor..
unknown 1 intake tube from 6.1, (and possibly 5.7) WK
52109683AC 1 Pedal, accelerator, non-adjustable (52109683AB is in my parts catalog)
55077661AA 2 Dodge Truck Hemi Emblem
Ideal stuff from donor vehicle that I SHOULD have got
SKIM, transponder, and key, otherwise computer may be no good!
wiring harness - engine compartment - just the connectors that connect to the engine harness and CPU and a foot of wire
exhaust - from manifold back, to behind the 2nd O2 sensors after the cats
gas pedal, bracket if any, and wiring pigtail
shifter, cables, and wiring
instrument cluster and wiring
radiator shroud and hydraulic fan
heater hoses
bolts for engine mounts :-)
transmission mount
PS lines that went to hydraulic fan and steering box...
transfer case control module and wiring
fuel tank guts and NVLD parts (could convert to go with bare TJ Tank>)
Engine VIN
1J8HR58245C677109
Things that I needed after getting engine that was mishandled:
engine dipstick and tube (dipstick missing, tube creased badly)
53021858AC 1 INDICATOR, Engine Oil Level
53021859AC 1 TUBE, Engine Oil Indicator
tranny dipstick - plastic broken
engine cover that says Hemi - destroyed
53013 789AA 1 EZ0 COVER, Engine
weld oil pan - seeping , small wear-through or crack
Other crap that jeep needed:
4646845 2 floor plug
J4007541 1 fender bumper
J4007456 1 clip, prop rod
5011218AB 2 heater knob
6036102AA 1 door strap screw
52104013 1 master cyl hole cover
6508081AA 2 engine mount screws
6502585 2 engine mount nuts
52109683AC 1 throttle pedal
Prices on stuff looked at 4NOV2008: bill kay wholesale mopar
2000TJ qty list sell list sell
55177482AA 2 floor plug $4.10 $2.91 $4.30 $3.12
J4007541 1 fender bumper $5.85 $4.16 $6.20 $4.44
J4007456 1 clip, prop rod $5.45 $3.86 $14.80 $10.68
5011218AC 2 heater knob $8.65 $6.50 $6.24
6036102AA 1 door strap screw $3.55 $2.62 $2.52
52104013 1 master cyl hole cover $7.35 $5.22 $7.75 $5.58
2005 WK 5.7L hemi 4x4
6508081AA 2 engine mount screws $2.50 $1.79 $2.70 $1.92
6502585 2 engine mount nuts $4.35 $3.09 $4.55 $3.30
52109683AC 1 pedal, accelerator $127.00 $90.25 $135.00 $95.34
2005 TJ 4.0L
4891427AB 1 Detector, Natural Vacuum Leak $46.00 $34.44 $33.06
52059627AB 1 Bracket, Vapor Canister $49.25 $35.09 $51.50 $37.08
52059640AC 1 Bracket, Natural Vacuum Leak Detector $6.00 $4.28 $6.35 $4.56
6503343 2 Screw $1.35 $0.95 $1.50 $1.08
4891564AB 1 Filter Leak Detection $5.50 $3.93 $5.65 $4.08
52059628AA 1 Hose, Canister to NVLD $6.75 $4.81 $7.15 $5.10
52059631AA 1 Hose, Flow Valve to Canister $19.20 $13.66 $20.15 $14.46
52059633AB 1 Hose $3.20 $2.26 $3.40 $2.40
52059585AC 1 Tube, Control Valve $31.75 $22.62 $33.25 $23.94
52059630AB 1 Canister, Vapor $104.00 $73.45 $111.00 $77.64
5161335AE 1 Module, Kit Fuel Pump/Level Unit $224.00 $159.12 $237.00 $169.20
55366299AA 1 Nut, Lock $8.10 $5.76 $8.50 $6.12
52059617AF 1 Tank, Fuel -- Plastic $359.00 $255.31 $378.00 $271.20
5013978AA 1 Wiring, 4 way $26.25 $19.69 $18.90
5013982AA 1 Wiring, 4 way $19.60 $13.95 $23.25 $16.74
2005 WK 5.7L hemi 4x4
52090043AD 1 PIPE AND CONVERTER, Exhaust, To Manifold $727.00 $517.75 $866.00 $622.80
56028994AB 2 O2 Sensor (Upstream) $47.20 $33.61 $49.40 $35.52
56028997AA 2 O2 sensors (Downstream) $58.50 $39.55 $58.10 $41.82
totals $1461.25 $1590.60
the list never ends:
56040662AH 1 Module, Front Control $404.00 $289.20
56050334AE 1 WIRING, Headlamp to Dash $712.00 $507.06
56050228AJ 1 Instrument Cluster $667.00 ??????
56044129AF 1 Module Transfer Case Control, standard axles (DS7) $147.00 $104.39
56044199AF 1 Module Transfer Case Control, locking axles (DSG) $187.00 $133.00
56040543AM 1 Receiver, Control Module (SKIM) $107.00 $ 75.82
56053034AB 2 Module, Low Tire Pressure Sensor (front) $ 40.50 $ 28.86
` 56044729AB 1 Module, Low Tire Pressure Sensor (rear) $ 48.70 $ 34.67
6505699AA 4 exhaust screw $ 1.45 $ 1.01
6503231 4 exhaust nut $ 2.75 $ 1.96
55077661AA Hemi Emblem
6505699AA 6503231
56040543AM,56053034AB,56044729AB
comma separated parts list for the online stores:
55177482AA,J4007541,J4007456,5011218AC,6036102AA,52104013,6508081AA,6502585,52109683AC,4891427AB,52059627AB,52059640AC,6503343,4891564AB,52059628AA,52059631AA,52059633AB,52059585AC,52059630AB,5161335AE,55366299AA,52059617AF,5013978AA,5013982AA,52090043AD,56028994AB,56028997AA
55177482AA,J4007541,J4007456,5011218AC,6036102AA,52104013,6508081AA,6502585,52109683AC,4891427AB,52059627AB,52059640AC,6503343,4891564AB,52059628AA,52059631AA,52059633AB,52059585AC,52059630AB,5161335AE,55366299AA,52059617AF,5013978AA,5013982AA
totals:
http://www.billkayparts.com/ $1461.25
http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts.htm $1,590.60 shipping $159.06
Notes:(not sure how do document.. giving this a try)
2008/11/05:
Wired up alternator:
TJ uses 2 wires to PCM(DG-18 & DG/OR-18), WK Hemi uses 1 to PCM (BR/DG-16, C2-19) and one to ground(BK-18).
They also cross engine bay to a separate connector by the power steering pump. I re-loomed
them over to the main harness in a more direct route, splicing the 2nd wire to a good ground.
Wired up the battery ground by shortening cable and running to passenger side.
Wired up Starting Circuit:
Ignition switch Start wire (YL-14 in manual, YL/RD-14 on TJ) goes to FuseBox fuse 20 (20A)
(and clutch switch, which is removed), then to the starter relay in the PDC (pin 2 or 86),
and the other signal wire, (BR/LB-20) goes from the relay (pin 1 or 85) to the Park-Neutral
safety switch on the TJ and to the PCM (DG/OR-20, C3-38) on the hemi PCM (can test with ground
if the hemi does not want us starting it :-)). Then connected TJ PDC starter relay output
(BR-12, pin 5 or 87) to the WK Hemi Starter Solenoid wire (YL/GY-12) routed over the
bellhousing near the power cable to the starter motor. Noticed that the alternator power lead
goes from passenger side to starter on driver side, then back to passenger side to connect to
battery and fuse box, I will move it directly to battery.
2008/11/06:
Started wiring up ASD Relay and Transmission control relay, got about 80% done planning it
and needed more terminals and connectors of the factory style..
2008/11/07:
Stopped by Billy's and 'borrowed' a late model YJ fusebox to populate mine with more terminals,
Went to the U-pull-it and got AC line fitting and a 14-position connector, but could not get the
TJ style connector that uses round pins, will look around more...
Stop lamp switch VERY confusing, the TJ (2000 4-cyl) has what appears to be the same switch
as the newer one that is specified, with a different pinout.
TJ: 1-2,3-4 = NC, and 5-6 NO
WK: 5-6,3-4 = NC, and 1-2 NO
In the interest of being able to use the proper switch for the vehicle, I rewired.
I disconnected switch pin 3 (YL/RD-20 that went to PCM speed control) and connected it to RUN-ST
(spliced to DB/WH wire near C202-Gray, this runs off Fuse 10 in the fusebox)
I Connected the other side of this switch contact (TJ DB/RD-20) to the WK Hemi PCM Brake SW #2
(LB/DG-20, C3-14) using the LG-20 wire on the harness in the engine bay side of C107(yellow) connector
moved to the unoccupied hole for the DB/RD wire. Connected the TJ WH/PK-20 to WK Hemi DG/WH-20
(PCM C3-23) after pulling back through harness from old PCM to C103/C10.4
YET TO DO: connect the WH/TN Wire to the Front Control Module C1-21
Wired up ASD Relay in TJ PDC:
Jumpered the pin 2(86) to pin3(30), (B+, RD/WH), Connected pin1(85) to the WK Hemi PCM
(BR/WH-20, C3-3) using DB/YL(spliced to DB/WH at old PCM location),
increased fuse 9 to 50A, Wired the ASD relay output pin5(87) with DG/PK-14 to PDC fuses 26(INJ) and 28(ABS-MOD).
Wired Fuse 26(25A) (already the correct DG/LG color) to the WK Hemi DG/LG(this connects to PCM C3-19 and C#-28)
Wired Fuse 28(25A) via a Red Jumper to the RD/TN of the old hemi C104 connector(supplies all coils with B+
YET TO DO: connect Fuse 28 RD/TN wire to the IPM/Front Control Module (pin 30 - main power?) page 2941
Fuses 26 and 28 have 20A in for now, did not have any 25A ones.
2008/11/09:
Installed and wired Transmission Control Relay:
In the relay spot for the ABS relay, 72472M style relay spot, on the solenoid side, I created a ground
for pin1(85), connected pin2(86) to YL/BR-20 of the WK Hemi (PCM C4-18). On the output side, I connected pin 3(30)
to fuse 20(unused) with a 20 A fuse which is fed by B+, and pin 87 to YL/OR-16 of the WK Hemi with a YL-14 jumper.
both wires to the hemi will be run through C103/C104 later, they are straight through at this point. The ground
will be spliced for all items needing it in the PCM via a strap at the point where the old PCM connectors went
into the harness.
Wired ST-RUN of TJ (DB-20) to the WK Hemi ST-RUN(PK/LG-20) that goes to PCM (C1-11),
YET TO DO: connect to the Front Control Module C2-7?
Wired fused B+ from fuse 9 RD/WH-14 (TJ PCM B+) to the WK Hemi RD-18 (C1-29)
Wired start signal for WK Hemi PCM C1-30(PK/OR-18) to YL/RD-14(tied into harness near C103/C104)
Wired WK Hemi A/C clutch DB/YL-20 to PDC A/C clutch relay output pin5(87) DB/BK.
wired Evap/purge solenoid(confusing):
Had to install proper connector for WK Hemi Evap solenoid, used old TJ A/C clutch connector.
Connected WK Hemi DB/BR-20 to TJ PK/BK, pulling the PK/BK wire back through loom from old TJ
PCM to the C103/104 portion of the harness.
Disconnected C103 & C110 wires from 4-way splice S102 of RD/LG-20 on firewall above brake booster, then
connected them with separate splice. The C110 direction went to the connector on the solenoid.
The C103 side connection (was A/T clutch wire) was then connected to the WK Hemi DB/YL-20.
Verified that Pin 1 of solenoid went to 'evap purge sol control'(C3-29) and Pin 2 went to 'evap
purge sol signal'(C3-20).
Wired A/C clutch:
Using TJ relay:
Solenoid - Pin 2(86) is fed by RD/LG-20 via fuse 11 in fusebox. Pin 1 wire DB/OR-18 is
connected to WK Hemi PCM LB/OR-20 (C3-11)(used long jumper, may have to hard-wire the AC control later.
Output - fed by fuse 21 to pin3(30) via RD/GY-20, wired output pin 5(87) DB/BK wire to WK Hemi
DB/YL-20, verifying with meter as there are two DB/YL-20 circuits.
Wired Fuel Pump relay control circuit, WK Hemi BR-20 (PCM C3-36) to BR-20 on pin2(86) of Fuel Pump Relay.
Marked SCI Tx/Rx - DLC7 & DLC12
Marked several grounds
Removed:
Fuse 16 for O2 sensors
OR/DG-20 from C103
DG/OR-20 from C103
DB/LG-20 from C103
BR/YL-20 from C103
DG-20 from C103
VT/OR-20 from C103
2008/11/10:
Bought a instrument cluster on eBay from LKQ, did some research to find that I was getting right one,
56050228AJ is the one I bought, it is for option package JCE (MPH, the 56050224 is JDH and KPH),
will start tearing it apart and modding it to fit the 2000 TJ instrument cluster.
went to dealership with my parts list, they pretty much laughed at me about the prices above...
I guess they are correct, $14.80 seems about right for the little plastic clip on the hood of a
wrangler that holds the hood prop rod when not in use :-)
20081112:
I dropped the fuel tank, removed the aluminum oil filter mounting plate and discovered that I could put the oil
filter directly on the block and get some badly needed clearance (it was touching the control arm, albeit with no
suspension lift). The adapter plate had the 2nd pressure transducer on it, the one that connects to the electronic
throttle, so I had to do something with it. The Hemi Block has 3/8" NPT threaded holes near the filter for remote
filters, and one was being used by the 1st pressure sensor. I removed the remaining allen headed plug and found a
steel hex-headed one, machined a 1/8" NPT hole in it at a 45 degree angle, and screwed it in. Then I installed the
2nd sensor into it. I had Billy get me a used fuel tank for an '05 TJ from the local LKQ, and I placed an order for
the remainder of the fuel tank stuff, the NVLD parts, and miscellaneous items with Bill Kay Parts. I checked locally
for the FCM and TCM, but they did not have the vehicle, or were holding out for a person wanting the complete
changover.
researching Sentry Key module, it looks like I will need to buy a brand-new SKIM, but it also receives the tire
pressure... transponders, this could be cool :-)
56040543AM Receiver, Control Module $ 107.00 $ 75.82
2008/11/13:
I welded up the oil pan leak, will grind down and polish.. Should have ordered oil filter, I could at least crank
it over since it has been sitting for a year. Stripped the wiring harness down for the part that runs to the fuel
tank, there are2 positions open on the connector, may use it to tie into NVLD, which has three and can share a ground.
Also looking at sun visors, they are missing on the TJ.
5EP34LAZAE 1 Visor, Right $ 35.00 $ 0.00 <--unavailable?
5EP35LAZAE 2 Visor, Left $ 40.50 $ 0.00 <-- "
55217264AB 2 Support, Visor $ 6.10 $ 4.34
SCREW, .164-18x.75, (NOT SERVICED)
5281090 1 oil filter $ 6.85 $ 4.88
5EP34LAZAE,5EP35LAZAE,55217264AB,5281090
2008/11/15:
Found some visors (without screws or clips) on eBay and won them for $25 +$15 shipping..
Started hacking up the WK and TJ instrument cluster cases, it will fit, but very tight and will need a lot of
epoxy to mate the two cases together... Started looking at wiring the instrument cluster and noted that MANY
functions (turn signals, etc) that have discrete wires on the TJ are bus controlled and sent to the cluster.
These signals are sent from the steering control module... it is $427.00 eeeek... worse yet, there are no
diagrams for the multi-function switches to the steering control module, and I will have to keep my stock
switches since of get the whole column... not interested in that at this point.
5143313AA SWITCH MU 0 $ 46.70 $ 0.00
5143319AA MODULE NO 0 $ 427.00 $ 0.00
2008/11/20:
I installed the visors, turns out I had the clips and screws... doh... Picked up oil and a filter, just
went with a regular filter and Castrol GTX 5W20 oil Parts came in, very happy with the accuracy, speed,
and cost! I ordered the wrong hood clip, glad I got it for $3, not $14 at the stealership! Had some
difficulty assembling the NVLD, had to strain to see how four wheeler did it from one of their pics.
No gas tank yet, so cannot install. Put in the door strap screw, checked out the electronic gas pedal...
I will need a connector... speaking of connectors, the one connector(5013978AA) fits the new fuel pump
sending unit(but I could have made another 4-way connector I had fit), but the other one(5013982AA) fits
nothing I have, maybe it is for the stock harness on a newer model?(mine is a 6-way with four populated).
Engine mount screws were a bargain, for about $10, I got the nice factory ones with built in lockwashers
on both the bolts and nuts.
2008/11/21:
Put in 3 quarts to check oil pan weld, put about 1/2 quart of that in the filter. Installed the hood-fender
bumper, and called and checked on gas tank, will be here Monday.
2008/11/24:
I started hacking away at the NVLD, used pics from a couple google searches to see that I had to remove or
modify the sheetmetal brace that is behind the passenger wheel between the inner rear fender and the outer
fender side panel. I tried chiseling the spot-welds, but started tearing the sheetmetal, so drilled them
out, and the outer panel had to be drilled from the outside :-( got the piece out, straightened it up,
ground goobers off from removal and made sure it fit back in nice. positioned NVLD system in the cavity,
and hacked off one front part of the bracket and made clearance in the back side of the bracket if I have
to remove the tail light, as it pinched the wire somewhat. used self tapper 3/8" head screws to mount it to
the horizontal shelf, placed the brace back in and used a third screw to attach the brace back in place,
will probably weld nuts to the brace and screw in place. Got gas tank from Billy, had him get me some weld
fittings to finish the A/C line also. Attached vapor hose to tank, put pump-sending unit in,(why the arrow
on the pump does not point forward, I do not know...) wired up the 4-way connector with the old wires off
the TJ, re-wired the VSS (speed sensor) connector to hook up the NVLD. (Ground-Pin1-20BR/YL,
NVLD Switch Signal-Pin2-20VT/OR, NVLD Solenoid Control-Pin3-WT/OR). ran the bare wires into the fuel pump
conduit. Attached fuel pump jumper hose to the new Pump, will have to come up with a connector for the vapor
line, the 2000 TJ had a 3/16 or so hose, the 2005 TJ has a snap connector like the fuel. Also will need
newer fill tube, looks like in 2003, the TJ went to a smaller filler hose (1.25" vs. 1.5") and fuel filler
vent hose (.25" vs. .75"). New Part Number is 52100495AI ($54.50-$38.84)and may need new housing, 52127675AE
($13.35-$9.50). I placed the tank up temporarily, called it a day.
2008/11/25:
Drained gas from old tank so I could take it to Billy, decided to make my own accelerator pedal bracket,
$42 is kinda steep for a flat piece of metal with 4 bends and three holes in it.. used a strip if aluminum
diamond plate, probably 1/8" thick, just kinda guesstimated by looking at pictures online, got it pretty
close, had to weld up the bends, this Aluminum must have been T6 hardened, as it cracked before a 90-degree
bend was had. After install, pedal looks to be in perfect position.
Looked online for more parts, found that Starkey Road near me started listing parts for a 5.7L 2005 WK,
so I was pretty stoked, (they had it before, but were not selling anything until they sold the engine).
I gave them a call, and they said they did have the car, come on down.. I loaded up the old gas tank, took
it to Billy, and headed over to Starkey, had to wait a while to get a person to go with me. We headed
out to see it. everything I wanted was there but the Front Control Module and the PCM C1, and the neighboring
WK, a 3.7L had a dented but possibly OK FCM... they guy called his boss, he said $200, I said OK, and we
cut off pigtails for the FCM, got the t-case CM and its pigtails, the two shifter pigtails, 3 instrument
cluster pigtails, and throttle pigtail and headed back... when we checked out the boss said that he did not
know we wanted a module (everyone else knew I wanted 2 modules and the guy who pulled the parts said modules
in the list over the phone...) and wanted $75 more, which started sounding expensive, I asked if we could get
a FCM and a package deal, he did not have one, and sent the guy back to pull the dented one. he brought it
back, and they pulled it apart and water came out... eeek.. well, it looks like the board was still OK,
and he threw it in, so I spent about $300 after it was all said and done, and now have a bunch of stuff I
can work on over Thanksgiving. Stopped at NAPA on way home and got 3 more rolls of 20ga wire.
2008/11/26:
cleaned up the FCM, went through the pigtails and wrapped back the wires I will not use, marked the ones
that I may someday use, such as door locks. Started wiring up the shifter, t-case switch, and gas pedal.
I started using open spots in the under dash connectors, but soon ran out and had to switch mode to recovery
of connectors that would not be used. Went through the slow and tedious process of connecting each engine wire
to it's appropriate location on the TJ, trying to keep lengths and routing correct to minimize re-wiring
for looks later.
2008/11/27:
Thanksgiving! - I fried my 17lb turkey at the neighbors, he did 6 of ours, starting at 7AM, mine was last
and was done at 11:30. Went to work on Jeep, more wiring, bus communications, the data link connector,
(which I need two more pins for, and may run a separate data link connector for the CCD bus of the now
standalone airbag control module.
2008/11/28:
more firewall connector wiring, this is seeming to never end, progress going very slow... did some of the things
that I put off before, such as grounds.
2008/11/29:
Another wiring marathon day, I ran the fused battery power to the FDC, it had 2 20A and a 30A wires, I ran
a single 14ga wire to it, and tied into a new fuse in the PDC and put in a 30A fuse. I used the 14BK/WT power
wire that would have fed the rear window defogger in the hardtop, bypassing the relay My Thinking is that I
am not using the DHS or diff lockers so I only need to power the module and the t-case motor. I still have
to wire up the motor connector. while in the PDC for that, I decided to use the defogger relay for fog lamps.
The stock SE TJ harness has the dash switch, but not the relays behind glove box. I decided to undo the crappy
system of two relays anyway, I do not h=need foglights to go out if I flash my high beams, so I ran the hot
side of the switch (18DG/YL) straight to the 18BK/YL of the headlight switch, the output of the switch (18BR/WT)
to the 85 lead of the old defogger relay pin 85 using the 18LB of the TJ fog lights, but re-routing it to
the PDC. I grounded pin 86 of the relay, tied pin 30 to a fused hot, parked the fuesbox lid for the relay and
fuse. I removed the battery and ran the engine bay harness on the passenger side in its final location. I
removed the batt temp sensor, buttoned up the PDC, bolted it in, and replaced the battery. I wired up the
NVLD and Fuel Pump to the main harness, and ran the Fuel Level sensor through to the instrument cluster
inside using the last couple open spots in the firewall connectors. I cleaned up the driver side harness and
put it through the firewall. getting dark, pulled out the work light and continued to clean up, shorten, etc.
the engine harness to engine bay harness connectors, need to get one more 12-position connector to look clean.
Before calling it a night, I decided to see if I could repair the tranny speed sensor that was broken during
shipping. I soldered the fine gage copper wire and positioned the broken, but complete plastic pieced together
and placed in vise. I used clear RTV and did my best job at filling the void so that it would hold and still
fit back in the press fit housing. had to do one more thing, so I went out and found a place to route the
vacuum line from the HVAC to the manifold vacuum, just poked a hole in the rubber tube in the throttle body
that goes to the evap solenoid, and inserted one end of the little plastic check valve on the vacuum line.
2008/11/30:
Installed the tranny speed sensor into it's housing with the vise, and reinstalled the sensor in the tranny,
hopefully another $40 saved. removed the PS pump as I read you could put on a TJ one and not have to make a
custom hose, which is somewhat true, but will need to space out the pump about .25" and use a remote
reservoir, as the angle is about 45 degrees to the left, hits the cylinder head, and the high pressure line
would hit the head too. removed radiator to get better access and work on it. Got an invite to the Bucs game,
decided I had worked enough in the past few days and called it a day at 9:30 :-)
2008/12/1:
Started thinking that the Ambient Air sensor that the FCM controls may be the same thermistor as the TJ
battery temperature sensor, reading the WK manual, it looks to be a 10k ohm thermistor (the -40 number matches
the chart for my pool solar heater sensors, but the 130 degree number is actually the 140 degree number...
should be close enough..) The TJ SM says it is the same type of thermistor but did not give values. I went
to test the actual sensor, but it appears to be open... will test the one on the yellowjeep. This may be
another $40 savings :-) Went on a run to the junkyard, got a steering column and ignition switch with
skreem module and key. got the upper switch bank that controls the instrument cluster, and the IPM that the
FCM plugs into, all for $150, pretty good deal. Stripped the steering wheel down to get the SCM and multi-
function switches off, and also cruise and radio controls.
I did some looking and I was able to fit the electronic back of the WK ignition switch on to the TJ, this is
HUGE! I sat down and devised a plan to go with the electrics of the WK switch, which basically uses relays
for RUN and RUN-ACC that are triggered off the instrument cluster, while START and ST-RUN remain physically
switched in the key. (Start provided hot, but the PCM provides ground to the starter relay. ST-RUN provides
power to the OCM, SKREEM, Cluster, Transmission relay, t-case switch)
Here is what I did for swapping Ignition switch electrics:
IGN ret - WK 20VT/BR to SCM C1-14
IGN sen - WK 20VT/OR to SCM C1-15
RUN-ST - WK 16PK/LG to TJ 14 DB (fuse 19(OCM),20(SKIM and Cluster),24(TC-R, A/C-R, FP-R, stop sw, PCM, FCM),25(ABS, T-Case SW)
Start - WK 18PK/OR to TJ 14YL ( final destination is both PCM C1-30 and start relay pin86)
B+(St) - WK 16LB/RD to TJ 14RD
Add relays (used extra 3-place modular relay holder out of what I think was a YJ fusebox and placed next to light switch):
RUN Relay - Pin 86 fused B+(just tied to pin30)
- Pin 85 to Cluster C2-2 20PK/DB
- Pin 30 to TJ 12PK/BK
- Pin 87 to TJ BK/OR (FDC PK/GY and WK OCM and Tire Pressure Transponders if used someday)
RUN-ACC Relay - Pin 86 fused B+ (just tied to pin 30)
- Pin 85 to Cluster C2-4 20PK/GY
- Pin 30 to TJ 14RD
- Pin 87 to TJ 14BK/DG
(this new relay just triggers the stock TJ Relay, which provides power to the 12WT/PK)
Remove:
Key-in+ - TJ 20LB
Key-in- - TJ 20BK/LB
brake indicator and park brake - 20GY/BK
ground - 16BK (use for cluster or SCM)
2008/12/2:
Worked on labeling IPM C1&C2, removing unused pins/wires, I will only use about half of it now,
2008/12/3:
Turn signals, Hazard, Stop lights and Headlights and the SCM/FCM...
(requires using IPM and FCM to control signals if I want the indicator
in the cluster to work)
TURN SIGNALS:
(using stock TJ turn switch to pretend it is the resistor based WK switch when
talking to the SCM
for left turn, cavity 2 and 3 are shorted with 649 ohms
for right turn, cavity 2 and 3 are shorted with 0 ohms.
If we use TJ multifunction switch, (disconnect all pins at first)
Right turn:
Connect pin 4(16PK) of T/S switch to cavity 2 and pin 1(18TN) to cavity 3
Left turn:
Connect pin 4 to cavity 2(done above) and pin 10(18GY) to cavity 3 with 649 ohm resistor
(or pin 1 may be easier)
If hazard is on, 4+1+10+3+9 which looks like right turn, but SCM should know this...
Connect:
Left Front turn lamp - FCM C2-10 (18WT/LG) to TJ 18GY (disconnect marker lights)
Right Front turn lamp - FCM c2-8 (18WT/TN) to TJ 18TN (disconnect marker lights)
then possibly re-wire front side marker lamps...
Left Rear turn lamp - IPM C2-15 (18WT/DG) to TJ 18DG/RD
Right Rear turn lamp - IPM C1-23 (18WT/OR) to TJ 18BR/RD
running lamps(maybe) - IPM marker light lead to TJ BK/YL
Stop Lamps - if pin 2 has 18WT/TN from brake switch pin 2, (as normally connected)
the T/S switch will allow current to the opposite light. :-)
HAZARD:
connect the two outside pins of the hazard switch cavity to pins 6(16BK/WT) and 11(16RD/WT)
HEADLIGHTS... (probably will keep stock TJ headlamp setup, but while I am in here....
(disconnect all wires from headlamp and dimmer switch)
main headlight switch:
Off - jumper cavity 4 and 7 with 869 Ohms
Park Lamps - connect cavity 7 to hot side of switch, pin 9(BK/LB) to cavity 6 with 221 Ohms)
Headlamps - connect pin 9 to cavity 4 with resistor to lower 869 to 221 when in parallel(296 Ohms)
Dimmer switch on column:
High beam - cavity 1 to cavity 2 - 649 ohms
flash - cavity 1 to cavity 2 0 ohms
Cavity 2 already has 16PK to it from the T/S switch.
pin 2+3 are High beam, and 4+3 are flash, so 3 is common.
Connect Pin 3 to cavity 2, pin 4 to cavity 1, pin 2 with 649ohm resistor to cavity 1(or pin 4 may be easier)
Fog lamps (WK) (probably will not use, but could be a cool feature
jumper cavity 5 and 7 together with 0 Ohms (perhaps with a normal TJ dash switch).
TJ door switches:
May need to hook up the WK driver door ajar switch, at least for key programming or sentry key
programming. The service manual says the Drivers side has 3 pins and the passenger side has 2 pins,
but the parts manual says that the two are the same. Ordered one for the yellowjeep, as it was broke.
2008/12/4:
Worked on some more wiring, separated the 2 ST-RUN circuits that I had tied together, it
looks like while the PK/LG is the real ST-RUN, the PK/WT is an output of ST-RUN controlled
by the PCM or FCM, as it is only connected to those two and the shift lever. Took apart
WK ignition switch tumbler and learned how to re-pin them.. may make black and yellow the same.
2008/12/5:
Went to automotive engineering and got fittings for transmission lines going into radiator. I
got 2 1/4" NPT male to -6 AN fittings and 2 90 degree -6 AN push-lock fittings. need hose. I
picked up a TJ 2.5L power steering pump(has tube inserted for remote reservoir) from Billy,
gave him a 4.0L one
2008/12/6:
Installed power steering pump, had to egg out the middle hole, as the WK has the three holes
in a circular pattern, but the TJ has the middle hole moved towards the center about 1/8".
Made a spacer plate out of 3/16" plate to bring the pump out a little, as the TJ one is not
quite as deep as the WK Hemi one. pressed on new pulley, went with the larger TJ one, can
always go to the smaller WK one if I use the WK hydraulic fan or need more flow for another
reason, but if I do that, I will probably just go with the WK pump and larger fittings. I
installed the 2.5L high-pressure hose, it required a significant amount of tweaking to get
it to clear the A/C lines, return hose, steering shaft, etc.
It is nice having the steering be all one system, except the drive belt, I know the recommended
fluid is the same, all things compatible, etc. (I have heard stories of pumps getting hot,
not sure if this is due to using a rec-ball pump on a rack system, or the hydro-fan or what)
Got the belt on, aligned the pulley to the A/C pulley with a straight-edge, pulley is very
close to the auto-tensioner, but has over 1/8" clearance, so I think I am good. installed
reservoir, will need hose clamp(used a regular one, will get a nice spring-style one. Filled
with synthetic steering fluid, need to mount reservoir, will use radiator and weld on a tab.
Mounted A/C condenser, placed radiator back in, and put in tranny cooler nipples. For the
tranny cooler lines, I decided to use the back half or so of the stock lines, converting to
hose right behind the oil filter, since my relocation of it interferes with the stock lines.
I cut the lines, and saw that the quick connects would make a good hose barb. I welded one
on, but could not find the other that I had cut of earlier, mark that as a junkyard item to
get.
On the radiator, I need to weld up two holes I am not using,
the plugs that I got with the Tera blem radiator must way 1lb each, and stick out quite a
bit, I will weld the holes shut with a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate. The spigots for the
holes that I will use are sized wrong, the lower one I cut the spigot off the threads and
will weld to straight to the top, will have to get a 1-3/4" for the bottom to weld on.
2008/12/08:
Spoke with Dealer, they said for $89/hr, they would do the programming, which seems like a
better deal than $350 to send my PCM away for modifications that I cannot really see as they
are happening.
For the trip to the dealer, will need to have the jeep ready to turn on, but not necessarily
ready to start.
-finish gas tank/nvld
-O2 sensors (would like to have exhaust done past the post cat ones)
-tranny lines and fill transmission
-finish t-case wiring
-finish turn signal wiring
-install door ajar switch for PCM/Key programming if needed
-finish and install instrument cluster
-SKREEM installed
-lift suspension at least 2"?
2008/12/10:
Ordered the following from billkayparts.com:
55075480AC hood clip
52100495AI fuel filler
52127675AE fuel housing
56040543AM sentry key module
6502092 hose clamp for steering res
4687558 door switch
Bid on stainless 2-hole exhaust flange off of eBay, and will get the O2 sensors from Autozone,
as they are cheaper than the factory and are direct-fit Bosch units.
Decided I would somewhat emulate stock manifold-back exhaust system, with the exception of going over
the top of the front driveshaft where the factory one goes under. Will try to keep equal length before
catalytic converters, but probably will not be able to all the way to muffler.
Ordered exhaust parts from Jegs:
4 2-1/4 409 Stainless Steel J-tubes
4 O2 sensor bungs
2 2-1/4 Catalytic Converters (4" diameter round spun type)
1 2-1/4 dual-in,dual-out stainless muffler
2008/12/13:
Received most of the exhaust stuff from Jeg's, muffler is very straight through, may be too
loud. Catalytic converters shipped separately.
2008/12/15:
Welded end on other transmission line.
2008/12/16:
Ordered push-loc tranny line, 45 degree -6 AN fitting, 1/2" plug, and 4 stainless exhaust clamps from Jeg's
and some radiator hose splicers from jagsthatrun.com.
2008/12/16:
got stuff from Jeg's 2nd order, still waiting on cats from them and the flanges from the eBay guy.
Also waiting on the radiator hose splicers. Installed hood clip and the fuel filler, need to do vent line and then put some Gas in with sta-bil
in case it does not start for a month.
2008/12/20:
Got cats, flangess, and splicers... the 1-3/4" one is brass, not aluminum.. shit....
Welded on radiator, sawzalled the fittings down and welded nipples and block-off
plates on.. need to get 1-3/4 spigot in aluminum.
2008/12/21:
Spent the entire day from dawn to dusk fabricating the exhaust system.
2008/12/21:
bought 1-3/4" spigot from local speed shop, $25 for a piece of aluminum... just to hack it up...
weleded on the spigot at an angle so the stock lower hose could fit when trimmed to length. reinstalled radiator.
To-Do list:
put in engine mount bolts
get exhaust manifold flange bolts 6505699AA,6503231 (may just get 3/8" x 2" stainless or grade-5 bolts)
finish wiring
gas tank vent line
gas
tranny fluid "mopar ATF +4"
radiator hose clamps 1-3/4" hose(2.25") 6032277, 1.5" hose(2.0")6502089
radiator cap (TJ is 12-18, WK is 16-20, all aftermarket are 18(16-20))
mount radiator
install cluster
make door-ajar switch for PCM programming
make steering shaft bearing mount
intake
O2 sensor bungs
mount radiator
remote batteries
After PCM programming:
carpet
shifter console
mod SKREEM to fit TJ
cooling fan
hemi emblem ;-) 55077661AA
Questions and comments?
Email: mjcother@yahoo.com